Interview with Santi Mas de Xaxàs Faus, Co-Executive Director, Torribera Mediterranean Center (TMC)

15 Jan Interview with Santi Mas de Xaxàs Faus, Co-Executive Director, Torribera Mediterranean Center (TMC)

What key factors distinguish the Mediterranean diet as unique and culturally significant in the 21st century?

Nutrition scientists continue to confirm the health-promoting fundamentals of the Mediterranean diet, which includes an abundance of plant-sourced ingredients such as fruits and vegetables, whole grains, pulses, nuts and — of course — olive oil.  Additionally, fish and quantities of meat and dairy are included but at a reduced level compared to Northern European and US diets. This dietary pattern has been repeatedly shown to reduce many chronic diseases that plague much of the developed world, such as the risk of heart disease and cancer. The dietary pattern has been shown to prevent cognitive decline, which is increasing as our global adult population ages.

How does the Catalonian diet stand out from other regions in the Mediterranean?

The Catalonian diet distinguishes itself from other Mediterranean regions as it is deeply rooted in culture; it is not just a traditional healthy and sustainable dietary pattern but a fundamental part of our cultural identity. Catalonia has adapted, renewed, and innovated this diet without losing its essence and values. Spain’s entire gastronomic revolution over the past 30 years — initially inspired by the Basque Country — has been led for the most part from Catalonia. This has encouraged many chefs to rethink and reinterpret the Mediterranean diet to meet the needs of 21st-century consumers and inspired consumers to value these traditions in their own lives. Catalonia has an exceptional balance between cultural tradition and innovation. The region benefits from the sea and mountains that provide a variety of products. The Catalonian diet exemplifies the core principles of the Mediterranean diet while continuously seeking to adapt to modern times.

What key milestones has the Torribera Mediterranean Center (TMC) achieved that highlight its mission and role as a global hub for food science, health and cuisine?

We aim to translate the internationally recognized healthy and sustainable principles of the Mediterranean diet into the food industry, including the restaurant and foodservice sectors. We are increasingly aware of the importance of eating well, the impact of climate change and how food affects our own and planetary health. As culinary congresses gain prominence and chefs receive more recognition, we are cooking less at home. The challenge is to ensure people eating out still have access to food that aligns with sustainable and healthy principles. Additionally, we need to relearn techniques and approaches of the traditional Mediterranean diet in our home kitchens. We need to value home cooking while other options compete for our attention.

A major part of our work — alongside working closely with nutrition scientists and public health leaders — is to collaborate with chefs and help guide the food industry toward healthier and more sustainable practices. Much of academia and modern life is siloed. TMC connects a range of academics and professionals to work across silos and integrate solutions to some of our most pressing challenges. One of our key contributions is a culinary perspective to research and its practical application in the real world. Many important and necessary studies highlight why the Mediterranean diet is the healthiest. However, we do not always see this research translated into the food industry or creating positive changes in consumer appetites and trends. These are the kinds of projects and studies that most interest us.

A significant portion of our knowledge-sharing and research dissemination takes place at the renowned Tomorrow Tastes Mediterranean conference series, now in its sixth year. This event and digital magazine brings together scientists and chefs from across the Mediterranean to share their studies. It provides a meaningful space for discussions that involve the media, influencers and policymakers. We also participate in research projects related to olive oil usage and contribute to organizing specialized Mediterranean diet programs. Our TMC programs and collaborative projects with the Culinary Institute of America (CIA) in the United States attract students and professionals from all over the world.

How closely does TMC partner with Catalonia’s leading academic institutions and research centers to drive its initiatives and apply its findings?

We collaborate and provide a culinary perspective in scientific research with the Institute for Nutrition and Food Safety Research, part of the University of Barcelona. We are currently studying the culinary applications of extra virgin olive oil. Although the global sale and consumption of olive oil — the foundation of the Mediterranean diet — continues to grow, there exists a tremendous misunderstanding of whether we should cook with olive oil or use it as we do in salads. We participate in sensory tests and panels and contribute expertise on different preparations and culinary strategies. Collaboration between specialists from different fields ensures research findings move our industry forward.

TMC, the University of Barcelona and the CIA are strong promoters of wide-ranging collaboration. The TMC actively collaborates with the CIA’s Menus of Change University Research Collaborative (MCURC), which partners with Stanford University. MCURC now represents a global network of 80 universities that partner on a wide range of educational and research projects. The initiative grows from the Menus of Change platform, a joint initiative by the CIA and Harvard T.H. Chan School of Public Health’s nutrition department. A national food strategy is being developed in Spain, and the MCURC project model has been recognized as an example of best practices in bringing together industry, researchers and academia to facilitate knowledge transfer. We look forward to working with our partners in Catalonia and Spain to grow this model here and elsewhere in Europe.

How has TMC’s Tomorrow Tastes Mediterranean conference evolved into a key platform for promoting the Mediterranean diet?

The event establishes a vital cycle of transferring knowledge to industry and ensures chefs and medical professionals interact and share insights. This cross-sector collaboration is unique; no other conferences bring together all key stakeholders in promoting healthy diets. The project began in Catalonia in partnership with the University of Barcelona, the Barcelona Culinary Hub and many others in the food sector throughout Spain and the greater Mediterranean region. In 2025, we will begin alternating the Tomorrow Tastes Mediterranean conference each year between Barcelona and the region of Messenia in Greece. Discussions about the Mediterranean diet can become localized, which takes away from the cultural richness and heritage of the region. The Mediterranean has been shaped by centuries of exchange and conquest. In particular, the Eastern Mediterranean and the Mediterranean traditions of North Africa do not receive the attention they deserve. By alternating the conference’s destination, we have better access to these important perspectives. The conference in Barcelona has a more urban and health-focused approach. The event in Greece will be set in a rural and agriculturally rich environment, allowing us to explore realities outside of the city essential to the Mediterranean diet.

An important lesson we learned this year is that Spain — despite being a reference for the Mediterranean diet — is also leading in childhood obesity because many are abandoning traditional dietary habits. Cultural ties to the Mediterranean diet are weakening, and it is crucial to hold events like these to help people reconnect with cooking at home, understand ultra-processed foods and navigate the growing challenge of having less time to cook. Two things are happening simultaneously. First, chefs and much of the population are strongly engaged in a renewal of the Mediterranean diet. Second, many are becoming enamored with processed and fast foods outside of traditional diets that often fuel obesity.

One of the largest challenges we face is access to healthy food. Economic inequality is increasing, making it harder for people to afford nutritious meals. Rising housing costs take up a significant portion of household income, which leaves less for quality food. We must remain aware of these challenges in countries where the Mediterranean diet is still strong. Educating people and integrating food education into school curriculums is essential. The more we invest in health and nutrition, the less we will spend on healthcare. Chefs play a critical role. If a healthy diet is not delicious, even the best educational campaigns will not be sustainable. A culinary approach is critical.

What opportunities exist for knowledge exchange between the USA and Catalonia in food and diet sciences?

The TMC is a great example of collaboration between these markets. We are based at one of Europe’s top universities, the University of Barcelona, and work in partnership with one of the premier culinary colleges in the world, the CIA. Together we are strongly committed to knowledge transfer beyond the attendance of our conferences and program initiatives through our shared global online audience. In addition to our academic exchange, we bring companies and producers together and students from the USA studying in Catalonia are exposed to these products. Additionally, the CIA faculty that spends time in Barcelona become familiar with Catalonia and its products, which is often passed to their students and professional colleges in the USA when they return home. We also work to introduce our Catalan and Spanish colleagues to product innovation from the USA.

Many food companies, particularly those seeking access to international markets, use our facilities as platforms to connect and expand. We often work directly with companies, regulated designations and government agencies to facilitate market entry. A key example of knowledge and research exchange between the USA and our region is our collaboration with the University of Barcelona on extra virgin olive oil research. This previously mentioned project conducts joint studies and shares key findings, which sets a strong foundation for deeper cooperation. Just as the CIA conducts company-specific research and innovation projects in the USA, we do the same here. If a company wants to launch a product in both markets, it can be tested in both through shared resources and comparative studies. It is essential the USA recognizes Catalonia as a significant investment market. Many countries show interest in this region. While governments come and go, market opportunities remain.

What are TMC’s top priorities as we move into 2025 and beyond?

Our goal at TMC remains the consolidation and expansion of the project into other areas of the Mediterranean and beyond the Mediterranean. Our move to Greece this year will establish a strong foundation for growth alongside new strategic partners, just as we have done and will continue to do with the University of Barcelona. TMC’s involvement in the region will significantly deepen our knowledge of this rich culinary and cultural heritage. We also aim to strengthen the presence of the Mediterranean diet in society and ensure its long-term relevance. We have strong and expanding relationships with institutions like the Basque Culinary Center and various players in Spain that are leading research in this field. Our focus is to drive this movement forward from a culinary perspective. We believe this movement is crucial in keeping the Mediterranean diet relevant and not becoming a historic relic. We aim to continue attracting world-class scientific and culinary research, promote academic and professional collaboration and advance educational initiatives. We want to ensure the Mediterranean diet remains a powerful and forward-looking reference point for inspiration in transforming food systems worldwide.